THE PLACE
Five years ago, sisters Sim Vongkhily and
Keooudone Phimprachanh opened Phuket Thai in a small leased storefront
on Empire Boulevard. They attracted customers with good takes on diner
favorites like pad Thai and spring rolls, but earned a loyal following
with a changing menu of dishes that differed from the norm. I recall a
fragrant duck dish that featured fried basil dusted with a hint of
cinnamon. Last year, when their lease expired, they made the decision
to stay in the Webster area and establish a place of their own. They
purchased a building about a half-mile east, a former soup and salad
shop. After a stylish makeover, they opened on New Year's Eve and have been welcoming former customers and new guests to their elegant location.
THE FOOD
We
chose two appetizers, both of which arrived in lovely blue and white
ceramic boat dishes with a compartment at the stern for the companion
dipping sauces. The first was the corn cakes ($5.95), which mixed sweet
corn with ground pork and slivered lime leaves. A red curry paste bound
the mix together so they could be fried to a crisp patty. They were
served with a light and sweet spicy dipping sauce that enhanced the
crunch and light heat.
When our second appetizer, the chicken curry puffs (four for $5.95) arrived, we realized we had overestimated our order. Each of the crunchy triangles was the size of an apple turnover! The deep-fried golden pastries were stuffed with minced chicken, potatoes and onion, and served with a peanut curry dipping sauce. While very tasty, the first serving was underdone with a chilly center. We sent them back and were given a new order, and the cost removed from our bill. By then, we were anticipating our dinner, so asked to have the remaining two packaged to go. We would surely return for these (well done) with a bowl of Tom Kar as a "Thai soup and sandwich" meal.
For our dinner, we chose the Met Ma-Maung Himaphan (Cashew) with Shrimp ($14.95). Tail-on shrimp were stir-fried with green onion, red pepper, celery, pineapple and cashews in a roasted chili paste sauce. The flavors of heat and sweet were accented with a hint of smokiness. Leaving the tail on the shrimp made for a bit of finger licking, but it was delicious and enjoyable, even if a little indelicate.
My companion, a big fan of curry dishes like Masumam and Panang, chose the Kang Dang with Chicken ($9.95). Veggies including bamboo shoots and slender green beans were simmered in a creamy red curry coconut sauce and infused with the minty fragrance of Thai basil. Every drop of the rich sauce was finished up with spoonfuls of white rice.
A tall tumbler of Thai iced coffee was delivered to the next table, and we eyed it longingly. Dark and rich coffee filled the bottom, while a head of cream surrounded the ice floating at the top.
Had it not been for the late hour, we might have been seduced. We would return for a glass at an earlier meal, anytime.
The restaurant is currently awaiting a liquor license.
THE ATMOSPHERE
The
interior is stylish and spare with smooth wood floors, turmeric-colored
walls, and illuminated niches featuring Thai statues and ceramics.
Subtle floral artwork lends an air of tranquility. With ownership, the
sisters have made this place their own, with a décor that invites
lingering over a Thai coffee and dessert.
